The above picture shows an older version of a ventilated inner cover (VIC), 3" high with 1" side screened holes. It has been topped off with an empty box to allow for
winter feeding.
The picture on the right shows an inverted 1/2 gallon "Mason" jar inside the VIC used to feed honey. Jar needs a refill! Mind you that I DO NOT feed my bees sugar syrup or any other
such form of chemicals as is usually the trend in major
beekeeping/pollination services. My bee's feed strictly of their own pure, raw honey.
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As previously stated, in
order to increase ventilation within my hives, I have changed the design of the original inner
covers and bottom boards. I obtained the plans for the VIC design from Honeyrunapiaries.com. I have altered a few things from the original design to fit my likings.
The reason I like the design of this vented cover is because it allows
me to do several things that I would not be able to do otherwise. Aside from the increased ventilation, this VIC allows me to keep an eye on the bees without having to remove the inner cover. During the winter months I can peek through the side vent holes and see if their food (honey) jar needs to be refilled. I can also remove the top telescopic cover and take a peek through the 4" center hole to check on their activities. During the hot summer months when the nectar is flowing the VIC helps the bees get rid of all that hot air and moisture which is produced within the hive. This in turn reduces bearding and lowers the chance of developing chalkbrood disease. Chalkbrood is caused by a fungus (Ascosphaera apis) that seems to flourish in humid conditions.
The large size center hole (4" diameter) allows for a continuous air
flow and keeps moisture from accumulating within the hive. The side
vent holes (1" diameter) are screened with a 1/8" galvanized wire mesh. This mesh keeps mice and other possible robbers from attacking the hive. To accomplish the same results it is customary for some beekeepers to drill a small hole directly on the front of their brood box to help the hive ventilate. The wire mesh usually ends up getting propolized by the bees and this stops the air flow thus defeating the original purpose. Because of the large
amount of air flow created in my new VIC design the bees do not appear to take interest in
propolizing the wire mesh as they might do with small holes and gaps
throughout the rest of the hive. This ventilated upper cover in conjunction with the
screened bottom board work in unison in creating a well ventilated hive.
Here is a short video of the VIC in action. Bees are feeding from a "Mason" jar.
And Now.......
Lets Revamp The Ventilated Inner Cover
Again...
After two seasons of using my original design of the vented inner cover I had the chance to experience its functionality. Not that the VIC did not function properly or that it was a failure but I have discovered several things that needed some "fine tuning". On January 8, 2010 I have finished redesigning and constructing my new version of the VIC.
Materials Used For Construction
The materials used to build the VIC consisted of pine boards salvaged from a trashed rifle/ammo box
and a couple of wooden pallets/skits. I also used a small amount of
galvanized nails "Gorilla" glue and a few staples to hold things together. Total cost of construction material amounted to ~$10.00. If
you wish to construct one of these VIC's and want the wood to
look new and clean you might want to go to your local lumber shop and
invest some money on pre-planed material. Eventually the quality and looks of both materials will be the same, regardless.
New Changes
First
of all, I have noticed that on any warm day during the winter season
when bees are returning from their cleansing flights some manage to fly
straight into the small screened vent holes at the front of the VIC.
They fail to find their way to the main entrance and end up freezing to
death. The number of dead bees had been minimal, nevertheless I
decided not to include any vent holes on the front of my new design.
The second important change that I made to the VIC was to relocate the front upper vent/entrance hole from its original location to the area directly above the VIC
floor board. This helped to resolve several problems associated with
the original design. The original VIC allowed bees to exit the hive
via the brood chamber but during warm winter days
the bees would also crawl into the VIC through the 4" access
hole. They would remain there" buzzing" away in an attempt to exit the
hive through the screened holes. In order to let them fly out I had to
occasionally pry up the telescopic outer cover to release them. I
believe that some folks in warmer climates routinely pry up the outer
covers for ventilation. With the new location of the entrance hole the
bees now can find their way out of the hive with no problem. Another
good
reason in moving the upper vent/entrance to the new location is that it
now prevents any wind from blowing directly onto the bee cluster within
the brood chamber.


The third change that I made was to build a "front porch" or
a protected alighting board for the upper vent hole. I
don't think that this is a necessary thing to construct but since I have been
blessed with having a lot of spare time on my hands I decided to become
more creative. Here again the upper entrance "porch" might serve in
reducing the amount of wind and/or rain blowing into the hive.
A fourth change I made was to rabbet the top front and back walls to create a
frame rest. Additionally, although not required, I have added a
view window to the rear of the VIC. This will allow me to keep an eye on the
interior thermometer which I have placed to monitor inside temperatures.
In the pictures below we see the front and back view of the VIC with observation window. As you can see, the interior of the VIC is insulated. For more information on heating and insulating a hive go to my page on Assisted Heating.


Wood Preservation
Finally, to preserve the wood, I give the exterior of the finished box three coats of a
preservative. I prefer to seal all my bee equipment with a mixture composed of boiled linseed oil,
turpentine and Penetrol. I make the mixes in the following concentrations:
1. For the first coat I mix 50% boiled linseed oil with 50% turpentine with a
splash of Penetrol.
2. For the second coat I mix 2/3 boiled linseed oil with 1/3 turpentine.
Again add a splash of Penetrol.
3. For the third coat I use 100% boiled linseed oil with a splash of
Penetrol.
This coating will give the wood a nice "varnished" look that will last
for several seasons or so. It will eventually darken but the
preserving qualities will remain active for several years to come. DO NOT PAINT OR SEAL ANY INTERIOR WOOD.