Bees, Bats and Beyond
Massachusetts Bee and Critter Removal Services 

Do-It-Yourself  "Better Mousetrap"
The Better Mousetrap materials 
Before I begin, let me tell you that I did not invent this design of a mousetrap.  If you search the internet you will find different and similar variations of this device.

In order to have success in maintaining a critter free place one must first extricate the animals and then follow a routine schedule of preventive maintenance.  You can do this yourself or you can hire the services of Bees, Bats and Beyond.

Before the extrication process can be a success all available food sources in the area must be removed.  After the removal of the critters the next step is to seal up all access points into the building paying particular attention to the foundation of the home.  If this is not performed correctly the mice will return in due time and the process will start all over again.   The next step is to set up some form of "guard" mechanism to keep a check on these critters.  You can go ahead and set up a number of "snap" traps in the cellar or crawlspace or you can build yourself the "better mousetrap".

To build this trap you will need a large waterproof container such as a 5 gallon plastic bucket.  You will also need some heavy gauge galvanized wire about 1/8" in diameter.  I use the wire from one of those conical shaped (wire) tomato/vegetable supports.  For the actual trapping mechanism you will need a piece of 1/2" PVC, the length to go from one side of the bucket to the other.  You will also need a couple scrap pieces of lumber (1/2"T x 1"W x 18" L) and some automobile winterizer fluid or RV antifreeze.

Start off by drilling a 1" to 1.5" hole on both sides of the bucket approximately 2" from the top edge.  This will act as a double entrance into the trap.  Directly underneath the entrance hole drill a small hole the diameter of the wire.  This wire will be the support for the PVC pipe.  Cut the length of the PVC pipe into several sections.  I cut 2 pieces about 3" long and the rest I cut into 1/2" to 1" long rings.  You will then put a 45 degree bend on one end of the wire and run it though the first small hole.  Feed the wire through one of the large sections of PVC followed by the smaller rings and finally by the last longer section.  (See picture).  Continue feeding the wire through the other side and bend the end of the wire at a 45 degree angle outside of the bucket.
Wire support and PVC rings
The next step is to drill a small hole on the cover of the bucket and slightly off center.  Bend approximately 1" at the end of a 6" section of 1/8" wire and pass it through the top of the cover.  Let it hang down about 1"-2" and bend that end into a loop (see picture).  This will be the traps bait station.  
Bent wire extensions to support ramps
Finally pour approximately one gallon of a 1/2-1/2 mix of water and antifreeze into the bucket.  Put some peanut butter on the bait loop attached to the cover and place the cover on the bucket with the bait station to the sides of the PVC pipe.  Do not put the bait station directly above the PVC!  Set your trap at some location where you know there was previous mouse activity.  Angle drill a small hole at one end of each piece of lumber (ladder or ramp) and attach these to the bent ends of the wire extending out of the bucket.  If you think that the wooden ramp takes up too much space you may use pieces of rope to lure the mouse into the bucket.  You may wipe a very small amount of peanut butter on the ramp as an attractant.  Check back in a day or two and look inside the bucket for dead mice.

Oooops...Almost forgot...Don't forget to get yourself a small fish net to take the dead mice out of the bucket!

The main idea here is to lead the mouse up the wooden ramp an onto the PVC "plank".  The PVC will be unstable and the mouse will slip into the bucket.  It works!!!! 
 
Bait station loop
The Better Mousetrap at work.
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